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Nikko | Boso Peninsula | West Kanto: Kamakura | Yokohama | Chichibu
Nikko
Definitely a highlight of anybody's trip to Japan, Nikko is a
sacred site located in its own national park in Tochigi prefecture
and has some of the world's most beautiful buildings. The area
also boasts Lake Chuzenji, Kegon Falls (Japan's most famous) and numerous onsen. Nikko can be reached
in about 1 hour 40 minutes from Tokyo's Asakusa on the Tobu Line.
The town of Nikko is pretty non-descript but once you pass the
multitude of souvenir shops and the striking red Shinkyo (Sacred Bridge) you enter another world. The first temple you
see is Rinnoji, the largest wooden building in Nikko and home
of the Sanbutsudo, three 5m-tall gilded statues of Buddha.
Toshogu's Yomeimon Gate |
Stone lanterns |
Kegon Falls |
Next is the main attraction, Toshogu shrine. In a magnificent hillside setting, surrounded by huge
cedar trees, the shrine attracts millions of visitors. It was
built in 1636 in honor of the first Tokugawa shogun, Tokugawa Ieyasu (1542~1616) by his grandson Iemitsu. Approaching the shrine,
you pass through a 9m granite torii gate, a feature of all shrines. To the left is a 35m-high 5-story
pagoda painted in brilliant red and gold. After buying a 1,500
yen ticket, you enter the shrine through the ornate Otemon (Main gate). The gate is also called the Niomon (Deva gate), after the statues of the two Deva guardian kings,
on either side of the gate. Once inside, ther Shinkyusha (Sacred Stable) can be seen on the left. It houses a white stallion
and is not lacquered but is decorated with wooden carvings. The
most famous depicts three monkeys in the famous 'Hear no evil,
speak no evil, see no evil' pose. On the ceiling of the Yakushido temple, there is a painting of a ryu (dragon). Clapping in the
right spot below the dragon's head produces an echo which sounds
like the dragon's roar, or naki-ryu. A flight of steps leads up to Yomeimon (Gate of Sunlight), an incredibly ornate structure carved by
some 130,000 craftsmen with an unlimited budget. In order to avoid
angering the gods with the presumption of perfection, one of the
gate's columns is deliberately placed upside down. Beyond is Karamon (Chinese gate), painted white and gold. passing under the famous
carving of a sleeping cat, you climb 200 steps to Daiyuin, the (relatively) simple mausoleum dedicated to Iemitsu. There
are many other beautiful buildings and photo opportunities throughout
the area and a day can easily be passed wandering the hills. There
are samurai processions in May and October each year which attract
even more visitors. The Nikko Kanaya is a classic hotel overlooking
the Shinkyusha, and is where the Emperor and foreign VIP's stay.
At the other end of the scale, there are a couple of good youth
hostels. Local delicacies include yuba (dried bean curd) and manju (sweet bean dumplings) from the Yuzawaya shop.
Lake Chuzenji is about 20km west of Nikko. If the road is not
too crowded, the bus trip along the infamous hairpin Irohazaka road takes about 50 minutes. The road is named after its 48 tight
curves so car-sickness is not out of the question. Just before
you reach the lake is the 100m Kegon Falls, beautiful but also
famous as a favorite site for suicides. You can see the falls
for free or pay a couple of hundred yen to take an elevator down
the 100 meters to a viewing platform for that perfect shot. Boats
are available for cruising on the lake and provide a good viewing
point to enjoy the spring cherry blossoms or autumn foliage on
Mt. Nantai. The mountain is the subject of worship in the annual festival
held at Chugushi shrine on July 31. As the Yukawa River heads toward the lake,
it it drops 200m at the picturesque Ryuzu Falls. Further up the river is the quiet and relaxing Yumoto Onsen. Another famous onsen is located in Kinugawa, on the far side of Nikko.
Boso Peninsula
The Boso Peninsula, to the southeast of Tokyo, makes up most of
Chiba Prefecture. The city of Narita and the International Airport are located in the north of Chiba, while the main attractions
on the main peninsula itself are the beaches and coastal scenery.
The east coast of the peninsula is known as Sotobo (outer Boso) and the west coast as Uchibo (inner Boso). The most popular resorts in the south include Kamogawa, Tateyama and Shirahama. From Tokyo station, Kamogawa is about 2 hours 10 minutes on
the Sotobo Line and Tateyama is about 2 hours on the Uchibo Line.
From either, Shirahama is accessible by road. The Aqualine, a tunnel and bridge connecting Kawasaki on the west of Tokyo Bay with Kisarazu in the east, is also a convenient access route to the area.
On the northeast coast, the 66km-long Kujukurihama beach is pounded
by the Pacific Ocean and is a popular spot for surfers. Further
south, Kamogawa is the main resort on the east coast. The main
attraction is the Kamogawa Sea World marine park, which has shows featuring dolphins and killer whales.
Tateyama is known for its beaches and is a convenient drive from
the Boso end of the Aqualine. It has many hotels and minshuku (inns) and is a good base for seeing the Shirahama area. Shirahama
is on the southern tip of the peninsula and is the center of the
Minami-Boso Quasi-National Park. It is known for its beaches, wild flowers, the Nojimazaki lighthouse, built in 1869 and ama, ladies who dive for shellfish and seaweed (not for pearls).
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