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The Japanese make a lot of the fact that they have four distinct
seasons - as if it was something unique to their country. Actually,
the fact that the archipelago covers several climatic zones and
is caught between the Asian continent and the Pacific does cause
dramatic mood swings in the weather. Cold, dry winters and hot,
humid summers can be found all over the world but there are certain
seasonal treats that only Japan can offer and others that have
their own local twist.
Mt. Fuji can often be seen at its majestic
best in the clear air of winter |
The cherry blossom, the national flower, is also a symbol of life's
transience |
The snows of winter are eagerly awaited by skiers and snowboarders,
who fill popular resorts such as Hakuba and Naeba and parade the
latest fashions on the slopes. Winter sports have become hugely
popular in recent years and the 1998 Winter Olympics held in Nagano
were hugely successful. The Yuki Matsuri (snow festival) held
in Sapporo every February attracts thousands of tourists from
Japan and abroad. The chilly weather takes it toll on the nation's
health and it's common to see people wearing white gauze masks
over their mouths. The masks are not to protect the wearer but
rather to prevent others from catching the cold - very considerate.
In spring, one of the best-loved symbols of Japan makes a dramatic
sweep across the country. Sakura (cherry blossoms) bloom usually from the end of March through
April in a kind of wave starting in southern Kyushu and working
its way northeast. News reports keep the populace up to date on
the best places to enjoy hanami
(lit. flower viewing). The hanami tradition has been popular since
the Heian Period (794~1185)
and is a good example of the Japanese view of beauty
in nature. The undeniable beauty of the delicate pink flowers
is offset by a sense of melancholy at their all-too-brief appearance.
This is often compared to our own short time spent on the earth.
This mixture of feelings is best expressed when completely drunk,
of course. And so every year, hundreds of thousands of Japanese
of all ages gather beneath the pink blooms, sing karaoke, dance
and drink till they fall over. Ironically, one popular hanami spot in
Tokyo is the Aoyama Bochi (cemetery). Those resting under the rows of
tombstones are almost forgotten as they are sprinkled with falling blossoms
and the ocassional spilled beer. See our hanami page for more.
Though not counted as one of the four seasons, there is enough
rain in June for it to be called tsuyu (the rainy season). Ajisai (hydrangea) blooms turn a pale lilac
and then a deep blue as the rain continues to fall. Japanese people
seem to have a bit of a rain phobia at the best of times, judging
from how quick they are to use their umbrellas, but at this time
of year, trying to manoeuvre through thousands of the things is
a life-threatening experience. And no sooner has the rain showed
signs of easing than the thermometer and hydrometer go through
the roof and the hot, humid summer is underway.
The blue flowers of the hydrangea signal the coming of the rainy
season |
Suikawari - Split the Watermelon - is a popular summer beach game |
In summer, temperatures get to the mid-30's in most areas and
the humidity can be unbearable. Only Hokkaido is spared the worst
of the extremes. At the weekend, people flock in their thousands
to the beaches or to the relative cool of the mountains. Summer
is also the season of matsuri (festivals)
and hanabi (fireworks). The biggest festival of the year,
Obon is held in August (July in some areas). The annual hanabi
taikai (fireworks display) held on the Sumida River in
Tokyo is hugely popular, drawing over a million and a half
people every year. Started in 1733 by rival firework makers Tamaya
and Kagiya, the dramatic and exhilarating explosions still draw
excited shouts of 'Tamaya!' and 'Kagiya!' from the
crowd. Although schools are on vacation in July and
August, high school baseball teams are busy vying for a chance
to represent their prefecture at the baseball
championship held at Koshien Stadium in Hyogo Prefecture. The event is eagerly
followed by the whole country.
The end of summer and beginning of autumn sees the arrival from
the Pacific of typhoons, tropical storms equivalent to hurricanes
in the West. Most typhoons hit the Kyushu region first and then
proceed across the country, wreaking havoc. Some of the worst
typhoons have killed thousands of people. A typhoon was also responsible
for sinking the fleet of the invading Mongols in the 13th century,
earning itself the name kamikaze (divine wind). September is the
time for tsukimi (moon viewing). Like hanami, it is a tradition dating from the
Heian Period although it is not as popular today. As the weather
cools in October and November, leaves begin to change color and
suddenly the landscape is a dramatic palette of red, brown, orange,
yellow and green. The koyo (red leaves) of late autumn are an often breathtaking sight,
especially against a backdrop of Mt Fuji or a temple in Kyoto.
 
Two views of the spectacular colors that can be seen during the
koyo season in Kyoto |
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