Kimono
The Japanese kimono, which literally means "clothing", is one of the world's instantly
recognizable traditional garments. Thanks to the popularity of
ukiyo-e woodblock prints in the West at the beginning of the last century,
the kimono-clad maiden became one of the quintessential images
of Japan. There are different types of kimono for different occasions
and seasons, including those worn by men.
Kimono are a much less common sight these days
and are usually only seen worn by older women or on special occasions. Part of the reason is
the cost, as a decent silk kimono will set you back the best part of a million yen. But
there is also the question of how to put on the kimono and tie the obi (decorative sash), a
complicated procedure that is beyond the ability of many young women. They usually have to ask
their mothers to help them or take course at a kimono school.
So how is a kimono put together?
Parts of a Kimono
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|
yuki - sleeve length |
ushiromigoro - rear main section |
uraeri - inner collar |
doura - upper lining |
|
sodetsuke - armhole seam |
fuki - hem guard |
sode - sleeve |
okumi - front panel below the collar |
|
miyatsukuchi - opening below armhole |
sodeguchi - sleeve opening |
tamoto - sleeve pouch |
maemigoro - front main section |
|
furi - sleeve below armhole |
tomoeri - overcollar |
eri - collar |
susomawashi - lower lining |
The illustration to the left shows how kimono design has changed over the centuries.
From around the Nara Period
(710-94), a garment called a kosode (small sleeves)
was worn, first as underclothes and later as
an outer garment, by both women and men. The garment became known
as a kimono from the 18th century. Although much less common today
than they used to be, even the short-term visitor is likely to
see at least one of these elegant garments during their stay.
Women wear kimono when they attend traditional arts, such as a
tea ceremony or ikebana
class. Girls and young single women wear furisode, a colorful style of kimono with long sleeves and tied with a
brightly-colored obi (sash). Kimono made from fabric with simple geometric patterns,
called Edo komon, are more plain and casual.
At weddings, the bride and groom will often go through several costume changes.
One of them will see the bride in a shiromuku, a heavy,
embroidered white kimono and wearing an elaborate hairpiece.
The groom wears a black kimono made from habutae silk and
carrying the family crest, hakama (a pleated skirt) and a
half-length black coat called a haori. Western suits are
more common for male guests.
For funerals, both men and women wear plain black kimono. With black suits being
suitable for both, it's often difficult to tell whether a guy
is going to a wedding or a funeral except that they wear a white
tie for weddings and a black tie for funerals. In January every year,
20-year olds celebrate their coming of age. Most women wear an
elaborately-colored komono, often with a tacky fur boa. Other
kimono-wearing occasions include New Year,
graduation ceremonies and Shichi-go-san for children.
Traditionally, the art of putting on a kimono was passed from
mother to daughter but these days special schools can do brisk
business imparting the necessary techniques. The first thing put on are
the tabi (white cotton socks); next the undergarments, a top and a wraparound
skirt; then the nagajuban, an under-kimono which is tied with a datemaki belt;
finally the kimono, with the left side over the right (right
over left is only used when dressing a corpse for burial) and
tied with the obi. About an inch of the haneri (collar) of
the nagajuban shows inside the collar of the kimono.
The loose design of the collar is to give a glimpse of the neck,
considered the most sensual part of the kimono-wearing lady. When
outside, zori sandals are usually worn.
Lined (awase) kimono, traditionally made of silk but sometimes wool or synthetic fabrics,
are worn during the cooler months. Light, cotton yukata are worn by men and women during the summer months and after
bathing at onsen
(hot spring resorts) and ryokan (traditional inns).
Often they are worn with geta,
informal wooden footwear. Originally worn to the bath house
by the upper class and made of plain white cotton, yukata became
popular among the common people and were often stencil-dyed. Today,
brightly-colored yukata are common at summer festivals and fireworks
displays, particularly for young women and children.
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